Posture and Setup

Here are some tricks I use to get a basic, fundamental setup:

• Aim: Stand behind the ball to get aim line (starting line relative to the target); pick a spot on the ground a foot or so in front of the ball that's on the aim line--focus on that spot as you address the ball
• Alignment: Take standing position on the side of the ball with club held out in front; align parallel to the line created by the ball and the spot you picked in the first step; back is straight
• Stance: In general, set the left foot perpendicular to the target line and flare the right foot out slightly. Foot position can be adjusted to encourage ball flights but one should NEVER move the left foot from its address position during the swing
• Posture: Unlock the Pelvis: Bend from the hips at address, such that the rear end protrudes SLIGHTLY to balance the torso; the pelvis should be inline with the torso. When the pelvis is locked, the pelvis is more inline with the legs, the back is in a C posture, and the body is already preset to stand up and lose the primary torso tilt, either going back or coming down. Don't go too far or you'll have the opposite problem with and S posture. If you feel unstable at address, check for this. The back is still straight; now bend the knees; arms should hang but shoulders should feel pulled back (if they droop the the upper back is drooping); this will look and feel as if you're establishing a tripod created by your legs and the club, and you will be looking in on your hands; another feel is that you're squatting to sit down on a stool (Updated 15 Jan 2015)
• Posture: At address, the sternum or the middle of the chest will be pointing to the ground at a certain angle, pointing more down with short clubs and less down with long clubs. Note this position of the sternum, for it represents the "return cover angle" (the primary torso tilt or spine angle) of the chest needed during the downswing to maintain posture and hit the ball solidly (Updated 1 Dec 14)
• Posture: Preset secondary axis or torso tilt by concentrating the weight onto the inside of the right foot and ticking the right knee in slightly; the upper body should then tilt slightly away from the target and the head should be preset behind the ball; this will allow for a centered pivot without swaying off the ball (Reverse K Position)
• Set-up: Ensure that the elbows are straight, close together, pointed down, and in front of the torso; the upper arms should be somewhat across the top of the chest
• Stance: Weight should be on heels at this point, so shift it slightly forward into the balls of the feet (mid-foot or arches)
• Stance: Take small adjustment steps to align the club to the ball and target line
• Set-up: (Ball position) Looking down at the hands and the ball at address, the hands should be, generally speaking, just in front of the ball for irons and just on top of or maybe slightly behind the ball for woods; the proper way to get the ball and hand position is with stance adjustments left or right (do not use the arms to get this hand position, i.e., forward press)
• Alignment: Finally, ensure that the shoulder line is parallel to the knee, hip, and aim lines
• Set-up: The belt buckle should be angled down toward the target/starting line, and the butt of the club should point at the belt buckle

My first typical error is to allow my pelvis to get into an un-protruded position, which fundamentally alters the posture and can lead to several errors, including thin and fat shots. A symptom that this is happening is that your shoulders will begin to droop and you will lose the feeling that the arms and club are hanging from the shoulders (i.e., the elbows and forearms may start touching the belly area, depending on your physical condition).

My second typical (and biggest) error is to leave my shoulders too level and turned slightly open, unconsciously aimed off to the left. This ironically FEELS right because the right hand is lower on the club and naturally pulls the right shoulder toward the aim line. But the correct position is such that the back of the left shoulder is slightly facing targetward; the correct FEEL for me is that the shoulders are aligned pointing slightly right, when in reality the shoulders are aligned parallel to the knees, hips, and aim line. Here's a test: set up in the correct posture holding a pitching wedge with the arms hanging. Now let go of the wedge and see where the arms hang. If they hang in the same plane the shoulder alignment is good; if the shoulder line is aimed too far left or right then the arms will hang unevenly. Turning the shoulders slightly rightward to improve alignment also gets the head behind the ball and automatically lowers the right shoulder.

My third typical error is to let my arms start bending and bowing slightly outward; my elbows separate and point outward instead of down.

My fourth typical error is to let the ball position relative to my swing center get too far forward, which, depending on the club face at impact, can cause pulls, pull-hooks, or slices. It's important to first "setup the crane and wrecking ball" and then "walk that crane into position," (Shawn Clement) such that the hands are just ahead of the ball for irons and either on top of or maybe slightly behind the ball for longer clubs (for driver, the ball isn't as far forward as you might think, especially for a draw). This works because the hands should be in the same position relative to the middle of the body for all clubs at address.

Along those lines, if you're losing shots to the right (i.e., straight-slicing, pushing or push-slicing), try moving the ball forward in your stance a few inches, especially with the driver, woods, and even the putter (Leadbetter). Keep in mind that this can exacerbate pulls and pull-hooks, so back off if that becomes the issue. (Updated 5 Aug 14)

Note that these setup steps don't account for unusual lies or stance adjustments for shot shape, so aspects may change for uphill, side hill, down hill, desired ball flights, etc.

Make sure you have a good knee bend and a nice bend from the hips. Your arms should hang down in your setup so there is a slight angle between your forearms and your golf club shaft. Your weight should be on the balls of your feet or towards the middle.

How To Achieve Perfect Posture On Every Golf Shot For Great Results | swingperfectgolfswing.com

1. Stand tall with a slight knee bend from the hips.

2. You should feel a pelvic tilt (butt out) with a flat back as you bend over.

3. Weight on the balls of your feet.

Good posture for good swings | Kandi Comer Golf

Once you are in this position stick your butt out. The reason for sticking your rear end out is to bring your center of gravity to a point over your arches.

With your weight in the middle of your feet you are in a dynamic position, you can swing the golf club to and fro and maintain good balance and that is the key to a good, solid, repeatable golf swing.

Butt Out - Play Better Golf

Chris DiMarco said his renewed golf swing is all in the butt. As in, sticking it out.

"My wife said, 'you used to stick your butt out like you were wearing a dress,'" DiMarco told the media after he fired a 68 in the first round at the Ballantine's Championship in South Korea. "It's amazing, the simplicity of it. Sure enough, that just kind of kicked everything right into gear and I have hit so many sold shots all week.

Tim McDonald: Chris DiMarco says golf swing is all in the rear | World Golf News

Often your stance can look and feel square to you but your hips and shoulders will be several degrees off line.

Instruction Tip #20 - Perfect Your Alignment

Point the butt of the club at your belt buckle and your belt line toward the ball.

"Belt line at the ball - Brian Manzella"

As we reach slightly lower with our right hand to grip the club, our right shoulder moves down and forward slightly and our right hip moves forward just a little bit.

Slight as they are, these movements "open" our body to the ball. You can see the effect more easily if you drop your right hand a foot down the shaft from the left.

The effect of this "opening" is threefold. It causes us to aim to the left, restricts our backswing and shoulder turn, and puts us in a position to hit from the outside in before we have even started the club back.

The Golf Stance Part 3: The Arms and The Open Position

Strive to keep your hands just SLIGHTLY ahead of the ball at address with all of your clubs. If you find you're pushing your shots you can bring them back to even with the ball. If your hands are really slow you can adjust them to just a tad "behind" the ball. No more.

Better Golf Address Fast and Easy

With the driver, most golfers play the ball too far forward and stand too far away from it. This might feel powerful, but it sets some bad things in motion.

Lesson Tee: Butch Harmon: Rule No. 1: Position The Ball: Golf Digest

The final step in our setup is to simply march over to the golf ball. From the setup position with the clubhead resting on the ground at the center of the stance, simply shuffle over to the ball while maintaining setup posture. Basically we create the setup while standing a few inches too far away from the ball, then slide the clubhead up behind the ball as the feet take a small step forward. We literally use the club as a yardstick to measure the body distance from the ball.

Golf Setup Lesson – Foundation for a Golf Swing

The hand position at address should be as close as possible to the position you want your hands to come into the ball at impact.

For an iron shot, where you need the club coming down into impact, you place the hands forward of the ball and in front of the club head so the shaft and left arm are in a straight line.

For a driver off the tee, where you need to hit the ball into the air, the hands should be opposite or even behind the ball slightly. The higher you want to hit the ball, the further behind the ball you have the hands when hitting off the tee.

Golf Address Hand Position - Stance Grip Tips | Suite101

 

 

 

Golf-ageddon: Myrtle Beach, SC

We'll be leaving shortly for our family vacation in Myrtle Beach, which also happens to be somewhat of a golfing mecca. I bought a golf vacation package and thought I'd share the courses upon which I'll be losing a lot of golf balls. I will be playing four courses in three days (one day I'll be playing two courses).

First up (the day I arrive), my son and I will play at Long Bay. Its signature 10th par-4 has a fairway completely encased in a giant bunker.

The Long Bay Club is a magnificent Jack Nicklaus Signature Course that is consistently ranked among the top courses in the state. This is not a typical Nicklaus design; deep pot bunkers and vast waste areas add a unique identity and challenge.

[From Myrtle Beach Golf Course]

On the next day, I'll be playing two course at Myrtle Beach National, back-to-back: King's North and SouthCreek. King's North's signature par-5 hole, The Gambler, provides two choices: not safe and dangerous. SouthCreek seems a bit tamer, but only a little (and for my current level of play, I'm sure I'll be playing up on the 'old man" tees). All of the Myrtle Beach National courses are designed by Arnold Palmer.

Famous for the island green and "SC"-shaped sand traps of Hole 13; the famed par-5 sixth hole, nicknamed "The Gambler" that tempts golfers with a shortcut to the green via an island fairway.

[From Myrtle Beach Golf Course]

With just 6,400 yards from the back tees, this course challenges golfers to focus on accuracy not distance with each shot. Finesse is required by every golfer with its guarded MiniVerde Ultradwarf greens and protected waste areas, as it winds through wetlands and hardwood forests.

[From Myrtle Beach Golf Course]

After a day of rest where I do the beach thing with the family, I'll close out my golf vacation with the West Course at Myrtle Beach National.

From the regular tees, golfers of all abilities will enjoy the classic Arnold Palmer design, ranked 4.5 STARS in 2010 by Golf Digest's "Places to Play". But be prepared for a professional challenge from the back tees as the numerous doglegs, fairway bunkers and natural hazards come into play.

[From Myrtle Beach Golf Course]

Putting: Pros Don't Go Low

Reading breaks. Every course is different. I've seen greens that don't bend the ball as much one would think; overdoing the breaks on those greens might leave one well past, but above, the hole. Such greens are typically shaggy and probably not well maintained. However, fast greens will be very obvious, as a slight nudge can start the ball zinging on a downhill lie.

More often than not, it's better err on the side of caution and play more break than one might think. Among other instructors, Hank Haney is a big advocate of playing more break than one believes is needed. Another way to think of it? Pros don't go low!! They miss above the hole on the high side.

Once a putt falls below the true break line, it has no chance of going in. So err on the side of overestimating the break. That way, even if you don't get the speed perfect, the ball still has a chance of finding the cup. Imagine if you had one putt to win $1 million: To give it every chance to go in, you would definitely keep the ball on the high side.

[From Zander Golf - Breaking 100 - Don't lean too far left on chip shots]

Adjustable Drivers

Adjustable drivers are all the rage these days; golfers can adjust various attributes of the club to suit their swings and help correct ball flight errors. My Nike SQ Machspeed driver is a square-headed, thud-making monster; I keep it adjusted to a flatter lie with a slightly closed club face position (because my ball flight error tends to be a slice).

However, I've noticed that on days when I'm making a good turn behind the ball and using a reasonably strong grip (slightly more than neutral), I can start pulling, hooking, and hitting really low shots off the tee with it. This is why it's important to be able to diagnose what's going on while playing. Two primary components of ball flight are swing path and club face; the two are joined at the hip and synergistic.

When I know I'm making a good turn behind the ball (full shoulder turn) and getting an inside-out swing path and the ball is hooking, pulling, or going low, I know that my club face is too closed to match that swing path. Suddenly, my adjusted driver becomes an enemy. True, I'm not slicing…I'm just doing the opposite, which can be disastrous too.

In those situations, a slight grip change may be all that's needed to correct the ball flight. I've noticed that the stronger grip I use for my other lower lofted clubs (like the 3-hybrid or 5-iron) can produce low and/or left ball flights with my adjustable driver, if I'm swinging on a good inside-out path. So (and every day on the golf course is different), I will slightly rotate my grip to the left (V's pointing between my neck and right shoulder as opposed to directly at my right shoulder) as a fix. Usually, this small change will straighten my ball flight and produce a higher draw shape.

However, go too far with the grip (or start making an incomplete turn) and the ball will start fading or slicing again. Golf is great, huh?

Use Setup Foot Position to Encourage Ball Flights

Here's something I tried today that I think may be far better than using shoulder turn or even the traditional body alignment-club face alignment to encourage a fade or draw.

Stand behind the ball and picture where you want the ball to end up. Then (depending on the desired ball flight) pick a line on which you'd like to start the ball that makes sense (i.e., if you're trying to fade back to a target, pick an aim line to the left of the target). Now, align oneself as if trying to hit a straight shot along the aim line (completely neutral stance). If trying to hit a draw turn the back foot out more and the front foot perpendicular to the target line; for a fade, do the opposite.

This encourages either more shoulder and body turn on the backswing (draw with back foot flared out) or more shoulder and body turn on the downswing (fade with front foot flared out).

I initially read about this in Hank Haney's book, The Only Golf Lesson You'll Ever Need, but it makes complete sense if you think about it. The cool thing about doing this to encourage a certain ball flight is that it seems to give just the right amount of inside-out or outside-in, providing slight draws and fades as opposed to more extreme hooks and slices that can come from the other methods (like the traditional setup method--link above).

For a straighter shot attempt (encouraging an in-out-in path), flair both feet out slightly.

Flare your right foot to 2 o'clock and position your left foot at 12 o'clock. Now swing the club for real and feel the increase in shoulder turn going back and the lessening of it into your follow-through.

As you do this, make sure you maintain your posture and forward tilt. Straightening up through impact only encourages a slice. This tricks also works if you hook the ball. In this case, position your right foot at 12 o'clock and your left foot at 10 o'clock. This will decrease your turn back and increase your turn through. You'll hit the ball more with your body and less with your hands so they can't take over and shut down the clubface through impact.

[From Stop Slices (and Hooks!) with Your Feet | GOLF.com]

To increase your ability to turn back and through the ball, flare your feet between 15 and 30 degrees at address, depending on your flexibility. The less flexible you are, the more a flared back foot will allow you to turn behind the ball and then approach the target line from the inside on the downswing.

The correct amount of flare in your front foot at address makes it easier to rotate your front hip and knee correctly as you swing through the hitting zone. If your swing is too steep, use more flare; if it's too flat, use less.

[From AskMen.com - Golf slices]

 

 

Wrist Action at the Top

Wrists play an important role in the swing, to be certain. But this is one of those areas, for me, where I can unconsciously start doing the WRONG thing and end up with that slice creeping back into my rounds. Ball flight is always a result of a marriage between club path and club face position at impact. This means it's easy to misdiagnose what's happening to oneself on the course if one suddenly starts hooking or slicing the ball. I've posted before about the various characteristics of different ball flights; it's up to each individual golfer to figure out his or her tendencies in order to diagnose correctly on the course.

So, what's the correct wrist action at the top? First, let's define what's an incorrect wrist action. For the left wrist, an improper wrist cock would be where the knuckles move more backward towards the forearm (in essence, a left wrist hinge). This is what is defined as a cupped or dorsiflexed left wrist, and it's a move that opens the club face. If timing isn't perfect coming back down, the wrist will not fully flatten and the face will likely be open at impact, causing a slice or fade of some kind. It's important to note that this cupped position at the top might be useful for greenside bunker or flop shots, where an open face at impact is desirable. All of this is related to one's grip as well (a stronger grip can be more cupped at the top of the backswing and still allow for a reasonably straight ball flight). When the wrist is too cupped at the top, it opens the club face and lays off the club. At the same time, a left wrist position that is too bowed (like Dustin Johnson uses) could result in a club face that's too shut and could put the club in an across-the-line position at the top (associated with hooking the ball). Good players can get away with either if their timing is good and they can incorporate manipulations to return the club to the correct impact position.

Now the right wrist is really the opposite of the left. An improper right wrist action would have it too straight at the top of the backswing (knuckles moving away from the forearm), which, if you think about it, mirrors what the left wrist does in an improper action. And for both, there are variations in between. Much has been written and taught about the wrists in golf, and wrists actions among golfers will vary by individual. Some professional golfers, like Tom Watson and Shawn Clement, teach that you should have a slightly cupped left wrist at the top to get the maximum wrist load, wrist cock, or radial deviation (Watson says: 'with as strong a left hand grip as you can use without hooking the ball'). Others, like Hank Haney, teach that the left wrist should be flat at the top (like it should be a the bottom), which means the right wrist would be hinged backward more. The right wrist associated with a left wrist that's too bowed would have the right palm pointing to the sky at the top (like holding a tray or pizza). A flatter left wrist at the top is associated with a more neutral grip. In reality, the right wrist should be more dorsiflexed than the left; this would be kind of like holding a slanted tray--where anything on it would slide off onto the ground.

When I make a club face error these days, it's usually because of a left wrist that's too cupped at the top or not rotating or bowing it fast enough coming down; when I fail to lead with the left wrist, it leaves my club face too open. My outside-in path error is usually an incomplete shoulder turn.

Here's what I've found is a good wrist and grip drill to teach the correct wrist positions at the top. I take my address position with a club and then raise my body into an upright position. From there, I simply move the club straight up and down in front of me using only my wrists. The wrists should cock upwards and downwards, raising and lowering the club; Shawn Clement describes this as hinging on the 'anatomical snuff boxes.' Using the same drill, cupping the left wrist would result in the club moving left of one's head, and too bowed a left wrist would move it right of one's head. The proper movement using this drill would have the club moving upwards right between my eyes. The club face should return to the same position when lowering the club back down using the wrists; if it doesn't…the grip is either too strong or too weak. Once the feel of this is ingrained, it's simply a matter of keeping the arms in front while going to the top, turning the shoulders fully, and hinging the wrists along the same axis practiced in the drill. As with all things in golf, too much or too little can be a very small standard deviation: Too much cup or bow in the left wrist will lay off the club too much or put the club over the line too much (respectively) and will contribute to a slice or hook (respectively), if not corrected coming back down using some artificial manipulation.

 

Throw Sand at the Flag

I usually don't have much trouble with two particular shots: fairway bunkers and punch shots out from under trees. And these two shots are very similar: grip down on the club (except in the sand one should dig in the feet as much one grips down), ball back of center, steady lower body, armsy swing. The goal is ball-first contact.

But greenside bunkers have been a problem for me; I've been very inconsistent. A greenside bunker shot is an intentional fat shot--albeit a slightly fat shot. My primary error is to take too much sand with the heel digging, and I fail to get the ball out in one shot. In other words, I hit the ball TOO FAT.

But there's a fairly failsafe method for escaping greenside bunkers. On the backswing, break the cardinal rule and REALLY cup the left wrist!!! This is going to feel so goofy and wrong (because on regular shots from the tee or fairway, it would be), but used with a full swinging motion that doesn't decelerate after contacting the sand, the ball will come out high and onto the green every time! The reason is that this ensures the club face remains open through impact and that the bottom of the club (the bounce) will be used to move sand. You can hit lower shots simply by digging the feet in more to take more sand.

There's also a good tip from Shawn Clement helps me ignore the ball more and get it out more easily. Do all of the traditional setup and swing fundamentals for a greenside bunker (or a pitch shot) but then think of this one thing: Think of hitting the sand a few inches behind the ball to the target. And being exact in WHERE you enter the sand isn't so critical, so long as you hit sand first. So the goal isn't the ball; it's the sand behind the ball that must be put in the hole. This changes the focus, because that image will help splash sand toward the target and take the ball along as an added benefit.

And how to do this (sounds easy, eh)? Setup is so important for bunker shots and high pitch shots. Really exaggerate the forward ball position, open the club face, and assume a weak left hand grip.

Elements of a good greenside bunker setup: I want the club face opened (more open for a higher shot) and club positioned in the middle of my stance; but I want the ball positioned off of my left big toe (in other words, exaggerated really forward). The more forward the ball position, the less sand you'll take and the shot will be longer and higher (go to far and you'll catch it clean and take no sand). The more back the ball position, the more sand you'll take and the shorter and lower the ball will travel. I ensure my left hand grip is very weak so that I won't close the club face coming through. I also really cup or dorsiflex my left wrist on the backswing. Then, I just make a full swing with a complete turn back and then turn through. Making a full turn and normal swing IS important. Also, stay loose through this shot and feel the club head; tension will kill the shot. Done correctly, even a slow tempo will blast the sand and the ball out of the bunker towards the target.

Another way to think of the greenside bunker shot is to setup and swing as if you're hitting a driver. This means the ball is off the front foot and the swing going back and through is shallow (more around the body rather than up-and-down)--the way it needs to be to keep from taking too much sand.

A lot of these same principles will work for pitch shots as well. You can even play the ball off your big toe for pitch and flop shots and not fear hitting fat. With the weak left hand grip and opened club face, you'll usually slide the club along the grass before launching a high piercing and spinning shot.

1) Get good footing: Grind your feet firmly into the sand. This will help promote a solid stance and good balance. It's also a way of doing some detective work, to determine the texture and consistency of the sand. Since the Rules prohibit you from grounding your club in a bunker, you should try to learn as much as possible about the lie as you take your stance. 2) Choke up about an inch on the club: When you grind your feet down into the bunker, you bring your hands closer to the ball, so you need to slide them down the grip. Otherwise, you'll tend to hit well behind the ball and dig too deeply into the sand. 3) Open your stance: Most bunker shots require a steep downward attack on the ball; an open alignment, with the feet, knees, hips, and shoulders pointed well left of the target, will facilitate this type of impact. You'll need to open up various degrees for the different shots, but it's safe to say that 90 percent of bunker shots are played from the open stance. 4) Don't keep your eye on the ball: Instead, watch a spot about an inch to an inch and a half behind the ball, because that's where your impact should be. Since you don't need to hit the ball on this shot, there's no reason to look at it. Again, the precise spot will vary, but suffice it to say that the spot is never on the top of the ball.

From Learn The Basics of Sand Play by Greg Norman

Most amateurs swing the club into the sand, and when they feel the resistance, they quit on the shot. Plus, they're fearful, so they tend to lock their bodies in place and just wave at the ball with their arms. Commit to turning to a full finish, and you'll get the ball out every time.

Hank Haney: How To Hit The Basic Sand Shot: Golf Digest