Showing posts with label loft. Show all posts
Showing posts with label loft. Show all posts

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Left Wrist: Flipping or Flattening, Facing?

You may find that some of your shots are leaking right and/or arcing really high and falling short. If you're like me, you might be slightly (and unconsciously) flipping your left wrist and/or not leading with your left wrist at impact. It's important to understand what this feels like so that you can self-correct on the course. Flipping the wrist is definitely a high-handicap mistake that takes some work to resolve. Over time I have decreased the amount of wrist flip I had, but it was still there--wreaking havoc.

The incorrect feeling is one where the left hand knuckles DECREASE their distance from the top of the left wrist at impact, creating an angle between the back of the left hand and left forearm. This move is called dorsiflexion. At the same time, the right hand knuckles increase their distance from the right forearm (loss of dorsiflexion); as a matter of fact, the right hand is the culprit in causing the left wrist to break down. Sometimes, this flip starts early in the downswing in the form of casting: the backswing angles in the right elbow and right wrist are lost early. In other words, flipping is where the left knuckles get closer to the left forearm because of an improper backwards flexion of the left wrist and an improper forward flexion of the right wrist. The correct golf impact position has these two reversed--they should flip the other way through impact, if anything!

Flipping is an unconscious move that the mind believes will help square the club face and get the ball airborne. Of course, like many unconscious moves in golf, it results in countless, unintended errors, especially topped shots, fat shots, slices, and shorter, higher ball flights. This "left knuckles bent upward" lifting motion (even slightly) adds excessive loft to the club and effectively shortens the club length at the same time, and it's often associated with its evil cousin--coming into the ball with the side of the hand instead of the back of the hand (a face opening move that causes slice spin).

I posted previously on ways to square the club face, to include a leading with a bowed left wrist position, with the back of the left hand and left wrist aimed in the direction you want to start the ball flight. I have also posted about the "knuckles down" or "revving the motorcycle throttle" release as ways to think of this squaring, flattening action. Some instructors teach using your watch as a drill (i.e., make the watch face the target), but you can have the watch face the target with a flipped wrist. Remember, the goal is a flat or slightly bowed left wrist that faces the target. Ben Hogan said succinctly that he never saw a good golfer who did not have a flat left wrist (to slightly bowed left wrist) at impact; it's simply an absolute fundamental. There are numerous ways this feeling has been taught other than those I've already mentioned, including "thumbing a ride" with the left hand, "making the wrists kiss," leading with the left wrist into impact, going palm down to palm up, and on and on.

MANY reputable golf instructors say that this flattening of the left wrist and supination is not a result of conscious control during the swing but the result of the proper mechanics of what precedes impact. They say that trying to consciously "turn the knuckles of the left hand down" at impact (or other such manipulation) may result in a few good shots, but it's also a conscious manipulation that will result in many bad shots, because we're talking about the fastest part of the swing. It's also true that flipping the wrists is an unconscious manipulation that becomes a habit that must be unlearned. So the real question is how to unlearn the flipping...not how to learn the flattening or bowing.

I believe Hank Haney has the right approach to this problem. Instead of thinking of wrapping the ball inside a release by supinating the left forearm (which requires exquisite timing) to square the club face, simply concentrate on firming or bowing the left wrist at impact (which helps limit or halt the flipping motion) and making the back of the left hand face the intended target line at impact. After that, the release (or supination) will take care of itself. I prefer to think of leading with the left wrist. Shawn Clement states that trying to keep the club head low to the ground through and just past impact (like a chip) will stop the flipping motion and automatically apply a flat left wrist.

The inverse of the flat left wrist is the hinged right wrist, which should be cupped (or hinged backwards) during impact (see keeping the box). Straightening the right wrist happens during the release, when the ball is on its way. All of this is split-second stuff, which is what makes golf so hard. When the right wrist does straighten (and it should), the question is what should the left wrist do in response. The instinctive thing to do is the error--allow the wrist to cup or flip. The proper thing to do is allow the wrist to rotate backward (supinate), such that the "watch faces behind you ." If anything, the left wrist should bow through impact--not flip--becaue of the right wrist bending backswards more when impacting the ball and then the ground!

All this means one can think of proper fundamental simply by focusing on the left wrist or the right wrist, as they are analogous to one another during the golf swing.

You can produce (or purchase) training aids to help instill the correct feeling. A ruler (or similar rigid, flat object) placed under your watch can inform you if you're flipping; now the watch-facing-target-and-then-behind-you drill makes more sense. Michael Breed has uses the hanger drill to teach this feeling. But you can also simply take some practice swings where you're trying it both ways to learn what correct and incorrect feels like. This will help you ingrain the correct feeling and to realize when the incorrect feeling creeps back in.

The back of your left hand, assuming you've got a decent grip, will show you where the clubface is through impact. The common mistake a high-handicapper makes is swinging through the shot with the back of the left hand -- and the clubface -- pointed up. When the side of the hand leads the way like that, you'll hit weak slices.

Get back to square: Golf Digest | Hank Haney

Back to "impact," the more you turn your hand so that the palm is facing away from you, the better you square the clubface. If the palm is facing toward you, you'll leave the clubface open. The feeling you need is one of turning your hand almost to the point of palm upward. That's a hook swing, but not a bad feeling to have if you've been slicing.

7 Deadly Slices: How do you slice? Let us count the ways and find your cure | Golf Digest | Hank Haney

In addition, the left wrist should be flat or bowed through impact. In the April 1956 issue of Golf Digest, Hogan wrote, "I've noticed one thing that all good golfers do and all bad golfers do not. The good ones have their left wrist leading at impact. It seems a small thing, but I've found it to be universally true. At impact the left wrist of a good player is slightly convex, while that of a poor player is generally concave."

This is all easier said than done. Proper supination with a flat or bowed left wrist is an advanced concept and one that it very difficult for the average golfer to learn. The vast majority of golfers instinctively flip their left wrists forward through impact believing that such an action will produce the optimal results: maximum distance and trajectory. Unfortunately, this couldn't be any farther from the truth. As with most things in golf, intuition must be thrown out the window. Instead, think of rotating your left wrist without breaking it.

Grouchy Golf Blog | Supinate The Wrist: The Key to a Solid Swing

Supination is the single most difficult thing to do. As Hogan said, the palm of the left hand must rotate to face up through impact. The left hand must also drive through without breaking down and allowing the right hand to take over.

Tiger's Impact Position: How to Achieve It

 

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Adjustable Drivers

Adjustable drivers are all the rage these days; golfers can adjust various attributes of the club to suit their swings and help correct ball flight errors. My Nike SQ Machspeed driver is a square-headed, thud-making monster; I keep it adjusted to a flatter lie with a slightly closed club face position (because my ball flight error tends to be a slice).

However, I've noticed that on days when I'm making a good turn behind the ball and using a reasonably strong grip (slightly more than neutral), I can start pulling, hooking, and hitting really low shots off the tee with it. This is why it's important to be able to diagnose what's going on while playing. Two primary components of ball flight are swing path and club face; the two are joined at the hip and synergistic.

When I know I'm making a good turn behind the ball (full shoulder turn) and getting an inside-out swing path and the ball is hooking, pulling, or going low, I know that my club face is too closed to match that swing path. Suddenly, my adjusted driver becomes an enemy. True, I'm not slicing…I'm just doing the opposite, which can be disastrous too.

In those situations, a slight grip change may be all that's needed to correct the ball flight. I've noticed that the stronger grip I use for my other lower lofted clubs (like the 3-hybrid or 5-iron) can produce low and/or left ball flights with my adjustable driver, if I'm swinging on a good inside-out path. So (and every day on the golf course is different), I will slightly rotate my grip to the left (V's pointing between my neck and right shoulder as opposed to directly at my right shoulder) as a fix. Usually, this small change will straighten my ball flight and produce a higher draw shape.

However, go too far with the grip (or start making an incomplete turn) and the ball will start fading or slicing again. Golf is great, huh?

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Golf Height and Spin Influences

The following are often trumpeted physical aspects of the golf swing that are associated with particular ball flights, but it should be noted that they are not exclusive to those ball flights (one can hit a fade using an inside-out swing). Slice or cut spin (clockwise-tilted spin) is typically associated with high ball flights and hook spin (counter-clockwise-tilted spin) is typically associated with low ball flights, but that doesn't mean one can't hit high draws and low fades. Understanding these attributes can help one diagnose when something goes wrong on the course (because it inevitably will).

Hook Spin (Draw) and Lower Ball Flight Characteristics Slice Spin (Fade) and Higher Ball Flight Characteristics
Setup further away from the ball; posture more bent over; elbow away from torso Setup closer to the ball; posture more upright; elbows close to the torso
Flatter swing plane (more around the body) More vertical swing plane (more up and down or down the line)
Stronger Grip (hands turned to the right) / lighter grip pressure Weaker Grip (hands turned to the left) / firmer grip pressure
Knuckles down at impact (flat or cupped left wrist - closes and delofts club face) Knuckles up at impact (bowed wrist or knuckles up - opens and adds loft to club face)
Swinging from in to out (swing plane tilted to right or swinging from inside) Swinging out to in (swing plane tilted to left or over-the-top move)
Closed stance (shoulders, feet, hips aligned right of target) Open stance (shoulders, feet, hips aligned left of target)
Back foot flared out, front foot perpendicular Front foot flared out, back foot perpendicular
Closed or closing club face Open or opening club face
Ball positioned further back (ball on the backside of swing arc) Ball positioned further forward (ball on the front side of swing arc)
Grip more in the fingers (promotes club face closure) Grip more in the palm (slows club face closure)
Posture more bent over from hips (promotes flatter swing plane) Posture more upright from hips (promotes vertical swing plane)
Short thumb on left hand grip (promotes club face closure) Long thumb on left hand grip (slows club face closure)
Lag retained excessively (hands in front of club head at impact) Club casting or losing wrist hinge before impact (no lag retention)
Full shoulder turn (90 deg) = flatter plane/higher shoulder-hip turn ratio Partial shoulder turn (<90 deg) = steeper plane/lower shoulder-hip turn ratio
More diagonal finish (club points more down behind the back) Picture frame finish (club and arms form an open rectangle shape over the head)
Downswing begins with lower body ahead of upper body Downswing begins with upper body ahead of lower body
Arm motion more active than body Body motion more active than arms
Hands and arms extending out away from body past impact Hands and arms pulling in toward the body past impact
Left arm straight through impact and followthrough Left arm "chicken winging" (bending) through impact and followthrough
Ball tee'd up higher (high trajectory, hook) Ball tee'd down lower (low trajectory, slice)
Smaller diameter golf grip (promotes earlier club face closure) Larger diameter grip (promotes later club face closure)
Higher lofted clubs (easier to hook and draw) (e.g., 9-iron) Lower lofted clubs (easier to fade and slice) (e.g., driver)
Gripping down on clubs (easier to release) Gripping at full length (slower to release)

 

Of course, there are some outliers (it wouldn't be golf if there weren't):

Hook Spin (Draw) and HIGHER Ball Flight Characteristics
Slice Spin (Fade) and LOWER Ball Flight Characteristics
Ball tee'd up higher (high trajectory, hook) Ball tee'd down lower (low trajectory, slice)
Head behind the ball at impact (high flight, hook) Head forward of the ball at impact (low flight, slice)
Wide stance (especially with driver) Narrow stance (especially with driver)